I’m about to paint a PLA 3D print for the first time, and while there is some advice on what primer to use (an automotive etching plastic primer seems to be it), I’ve not see anything but hand wavy “add a layer of clear coat” for sealing.

Does anyone have any advice on a matte finish clear coat product that works well, as much so I know I have the right class/type of product?

Also, is there much difference between the products from hobby shops vs hardware stores? I can imagine the hobby ones are at a consistency for painting fine details, but it may also all be the same thing.

Thanks

  • nigel@piefed.socialOP
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    23 hours ago

    Thank you for this. I’m actually trying a Rust-Oleum primer for this, so I’ll check out their varnish too. And I’ll get setup PPE wise.

    Regarding the print, this one is a pirate chest to be used as a money box for my son. Other than the hinge there are no really moving parts, but I expect it’ll get banged around a bit, hence thinking I need the clear coat at all.

    • otter@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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      9 hours ago

      No worries, that seems fairly straightforward overall in that the abutting hinge surfaces could go unvarnished but sanded, (I’d use dot stickers, if you don’t feel like fiddling w/ hand-cut tape pieces) followed by a light dusting of graphite (ie. shave some pencil lead into a creased post-it and then sift it onto them [and into the rod’s channel, for inc. smooth action]). The rest can be clear coated to your preference. (leave said masking on until this step is complete & dry cured, fyi [24+ hrs])

      FWIW, gloss first and then matte for super durability as IIRC, the gloss particulate is torus-shaped whereas the matte is spheroid, and this method nests them neatly for a better bond. It’s how I’ve sealed my TTRPG pieces for decades, and while possibly anecdotal, the results are night & day in my experience. 🤘🏼

      Oh, and if it needs mentioning: do not construct it fully and then varnish the whole model in one piece. That will glue the thing shut. 🫡