Full brims, mouse ears, with glue, without glue, higher bed temperature, lower bed temperature, flat base, concentric cutout base - whatever I try, I seem to be getting wank adhesion, major warping, and ultimately this shitshow.

Dry PLA, warm room, no draught, plate cleaned with IPA. I’m going to fucking punch this thing in its stupid fucking face.

Edit: Prevailing advice very much seems to be to bust out the Fairy liquid and give it a good scrub, so I’ll try that. It’s a Kobra Neo 2 so is auto-levelling, so I can’t piss around with any of that stuff (as far as I know). Another quick question while I think about it, does everyone always print onto the bed at ~60°C? Because Orca Slicer’s default for a textured PEI plate is 45°C, which seems mad. I think I tried it once and it was shite so turned it back up to 60.

  • 🖖USS-Ethernet@startrek.website
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    2 days ago

    As others said, dish soap over IPA. I’ve also had shite PLA before as others mentioned. Find a good brand and stick with it. Also, magigoo is amazing. Basically glue but not glue. Designed to stick when the bed is hot then release when it cools. I add magigoo any time I have a long print where I worried about potential warping or lifting.

    • filcuk@lemmy.zip
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      1 day ago

      My understanding is that dish soap cleans grease and IPA smears it around.
      What I do is wash with soap once, then clean with IPA between prints starting from the center outwards (* until it’s dirty enough to need another proper wash).