No idea what the deal is here.
This is on my slightly modded Creality Ender 3 Pro. (It’s got a CR-Touch, better springs, a metal extruder assembly, an upgraded official Ender 3 Pro motherboard with quieter stepper controller capability. Nothing all that invasive.) Identical gcode worked perfectly fine on my Ender 3 V2 Neo. (Which is sufficiently similar that gcode is interchangeable.) I’ve used that particular roll of filament for other prints before and had no issues. And the same printer has given me no other similar issues with other prints, including prints that were taller than where it failed on these photographed prints.
After the one on the right failed, I assumed it was a clog and did a cold pull. The second print (still on the bed) started out just fine, but started underextruding the same way at almost exactly the same place. I say “almost” because looking closely in person, it does look like the second started underextruding just maybe 3 to 4 layers later than the first.
I suppose it’s possible it was a second clog at almost exactly the same place on the second print, but it’s pretty coincidental if so. Plus recovering spontaneously on that second print is pretty weird.
I dunno. Just very weird and I’m hoping folks here have an idea what I might look into to find a solution. Thanks in advance!
Also, just a few more images in case it helps:
Error persists on entire layer where a new retraction pattern is used, therefore it is very unlikely to be filament humidity or a gcode issue, but filament settings.
What is your retraction length and speed? Do a cold pull to rule out debris. Reduce your retraction until stringing occures, observe if the error repeats. Temperature could be playing a role, but if your layer adhesion is up to expectations, I wouldn’t change. Also observe your nozzle and make sure it’s taught, I’ve been surprised how fast some of my brass nozzles have worn out even with non-abrasives, and causes a similar symptom of randomhish failures, especially if loose.
PS: sometimes a couple cold pulls are needed and try to hit different temps when you pull. I’ve noticed since PETG doesnt stick to PLA, to use PLA as a cold pull you actually need it warm enough that the PETG bits will flake off the inside