So I’ve been wanting to make those Clear Keychains for some of my Artist Friends that we saw at a Convention, with my first idea being Resin 3D Printing, a thing that I am very much unfamiliar with!

My Idea is to 3D Print out a Transparent shape, then Print the same shape but mirrored, then take both and Sandwich a Paper Print picture of one of my Friends Characters between the 2 and bind it all together!

There is a concern that I have Before I go out and get myself setup with a Resin 3D Printer… how Clear is Clear Resin anyway? All I can seem to find Online is Prints made by the Resin Sellers, which lets be real, cannot be trusted on its own. Given that the Paper Picture Sandwiched in the 2 Resin Shapes needs to be very Visible, the Resin Shape must be basically Near Perfectly Clear. What is your Folks experience with Clear Resin? Would you recommend using a Resin 3D Printer for this or should I go look for other Methods?

Edit: Thanks too all of you for shimming in with your Many Detailed Experiences, Ideas and Suggestions! After considering everything, I’ve decided that the best Route I should take is utilising a Laser Cutting Machine with Acrylic. A thing I’ve somehow not considered before! I want to choose the Lasercutting method in Particular as I think it’ll also allow for many other Possibilities to Create things in the Future! Now I do have to do my Research on what machines are on the Market for Transparent Acrylic, as from what I’ve read only certain Laser Types can Handle those. But I think I’ll find something that Suits me! Much thanks for everyone who Commented here!

  • Cyberflunk@lemmy.worldEnglish
    281·
    3 days ago

    ive done this research for a project and this is what i found:

    Clear resin can be transparent, but “perfectly glass-like” out of the printer is a myth. Here’s what you should expect:

    Raw Print Clarity

    • Most SLA/DLP clear resins come out looking cloudy or frosted. Layer lines scatter light, and the cured surface tends to have a slight haze.
    • Even high-end resins that advertise “water clear” need careful handling—straight off the printer they’re closer to frosted acrylic than window glass.

    Post-Processing is Everything

    • Sanding & Polishing: If you sand through grits (400 → 3000) and then buff/polish, you can achieve near-crystal clarity, especially on flat faces.
    • Clear Coating: Spraying or dipping in clear acrylic or epoxy can restore transparency and give a smooth finish without hours of polishing.
    • UV Over-curing: Too much UV exposure yellows resin and makes it cloudy. You’ll want just enough to finish curing.
    • Surface Orientation: The side that prints directly against a smooth FEP or a glass plate can come out very clear—almost lens-like—while support-touching surfaces will be rough and need finishing.

    Practical Reality for Your Project

    If you sandwich a printed photo between two unpolished clear resin halves, the picture will likely look murky, as if behind frosted glass. If you’re willing to polish the inner faces, you’ll get a much cleaner look—but alignment and dust control will be tricky.

    For something like keychains, most makers actually skip the “clear 3D print” route and:

    • Use UV-curable dome resin (like jewelry makers use) poured into bezels or molds. Much easier to get crystal clear and bubble-free.
    • Or laser-cut acrylic, which is optically clear and needs no polishing. You can sandwich artwork between two acrylic pieces and bond with clear adhesive.

    Recommendation

    Resin 3D printing can work, but only if you’re ready for a lot of sanding, polishing, and sealing. If your main goal is crisp visibility of the artwork, poured resin or acrylic sheets will get you there faster and with more reliable clarity. The printer route shines more when you want unusual shapes or embedded 3D geometry.